The third offering from Ed Rudisell, who co-owns Siam Square and Black Market, is a shotgun-style shop offering (on the cheap) several varieties of Bánh mì, Vietnam’s national sandwich. Standouts include The Rook, which plays chicken liver terrine (made to order from Goose the Market) against Vietnamese pork roll. Nothing overpowers; each ingredient — including proteins like ground chicken or beef peanut curry and toppings like pickled Korean radish and carrots — pops up randomly on your tongue like a whack-a-mole. Simple as its menu and mission may be, Rook is just as important to a strong culinary community as once-a-month or -year fine dining experiences.

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